Tuesday, October 03, 2006


The road to Chiloë, 1975

When Bruce Chatwin came to Chiloë, he travelled west toward the Pacific Coast. At that time there was no road to Cucao so from Huillinco people took the ferry over Lago Cucao. He had to travel with the coffin of a dead woman and felt like he was on the river Styx.

Of course he picked up some stories in Cucao, about the witchmaster Millalobo and a baby partly changed into a seal…and about the landing place of the Ferryman (whom you should not call for). This is all in the chapter “Chiloé” in the essay collection “What am I doing here?” He mentions two wooden churches, standing in a field, which could have been built by old celtic monks.

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